Living Lights

I am always inspired by my guests; especially those first timers. This is where I draw inspiration for this column.
For me, highlighting is an art, not an exercise or pattern to be repeating over and over each person each day. The hair is a canvas, a picture waiting to be painted. The haircolor in all its hues and contrasts create visual texture and statement.
All too often over the decades we continue to see very linear highlighting which is no longer in style. Linear highlighting is the end result of stacking the foils in a straight line creating a saddle from ear to ear or a Mohawk down the center of the head. It stands to reason that which is placed in a straight line will produce a straight line.
Another all too common feature which is artistically incorrect is where light and dark meet, come together and fit well next to each other. Excessive highlighting and lowlighting not only damages the hair and leaves the canvas less than but it also creates a strange effect visually on the color. The trained eye will light where there should be dark and vice versa. An expert colorist can tell the difference and place shadow where it belongs.
Some of the best lowlighting can make a blonde look blonder just by giving background to areas void of representation. I call this common flaw negative highlighting like the negative of a photo where everything is reversed.
Today’s highlighting is not about how many foils are stacked like a deck of cards but in creating the proper custom painting for the wearer. It’s about creating illusion, light, shadow, texture and bringing to life the haircut and the person’s individual features.
So let go of the linguini highlights and say hello to the world of uneven etches of light that will grace and silhouette your hair.

Don't be Afraid

Many times in my career and from 100's of people; I hear clients say I have a guy or gal I like and I am afraid to leave them. I meet people like this as I speak to and consult new people. My approach is simple and direct. "When was the last time you had a compliment on your hair?" Often these people express that they don't even love their hair or that nothing new has been offered to them. Yet they defend how nice their hairdresser is and that they don't want to hurt them or insult them.

That's nice, even admirable.

But remember, you are the consumer, the paying customer. It is your job to communicate with them what you like and don't like or if you want something different. Without your feedback no one will know. On the other hand if your salon professional is unable or cant or simply doesn't offer new things then don't be afraid to leave.

Its your money, your hair.

There are plenty of professionals out there who pride themselves on continuing education, offering new ideas every time (whether or not you choose them) There are those who want feedback of all kinds, good and not good.

Sometimes we hear stories about people who have been using their salon professional for a long time and love what they get every time but then one day the service just off par and without saying anything the client never returns. There could be many reasons why something is off par on rare occasion but without your feedback you both lose out. If you have always been happy then it is unfair to you and them to sell out after 1 so-so visit, of course if it happens again then time to seek out a new fabulous professional perhaps even in the same salon. Almost every time if someone knows you weren't 100% they can adjust it to make it right. Usually these are simple tweaks to dial in on your personal preferences. Without your feedback they may go on thinking you love it. SO speak up politely.

So there are 2 reasons to not being afraid. 1) you can save a great relationship or 2) gain a new great hairdresser.

I vote for #1 first then if nothing changes for you then never ever be afraid to seek out #2.

www.haircolorartist.com

Can your hair affect your personality?

Can your hair affect your personality? Change your mood? (You bet!)
Just like clothing or food your haircolor and cut can make you feel like an entirely different person.
Adding spice to your color can give you that daring feeling or mood. Softening a strong color can get you feeling romantic.
A complete change or total makeover can change your whole outlook. It has been reported that a totally new cut or color change can alter your personality. Take for example someone who goes from blonde to strawberry blonde before their first day on a new job. The daring move in color can give that person new bold confidence in the work place.
Like putting on costume your hair can help you assume a whole new persona.
So if you are feeling like you need a change, pick me up, or perhaps a mood rut; consider reinventing your haircolor. The choices are unlimited. You can go bold, soft, sexy, spicy, classic, avant garde, or retro.
Most important, don’t get stuck in the rut on wearing the same look year after year.

Written By Eric Charles Mokotoff www.haircolorartist.com

What's In?

As Salon Industry Professionals we are frequently asked, “What is in style for haircolor?”
These days anything and everything goes. The barriers of conventionalism are gone. But what color is right for you? It all depends on your lifestyle, age, skin tone, eye tone and how daring or conservative you are. What makes fabulous haircolor is how it is all put together to fit you the individual. What always works best is working within 1-3 steps of you natural color as a gauge of how light or dark you can go. This is a universal color meter. From there your colorist can suggest what tones work with your skin and eyes. The final step is how would you like this all put together? The structure or your haircolor can be classic, natural, trendy, understated, overstated, avant garde, or downright over the top. Your personality and lifestyle will help you decide what you can go to work or school with or how you want to be seen in your life’s circles. Most important is to have fun with you color and be open to trying new things. Haircolor is a fashion that you wear everyday and it is seen every day by all whom you come into contact with. It is easy to get caught up in what boyfriends, husbands and coworkers think but trust your salon professional to make the decision with you. They know best how it all goes together. For, example maybe someone in your life prefers blondes, but your hair is naturally very dark. Let’s say it is more than 3 steps away from blonde. For you to wear blonde you would have to double process to avoid wearing “BLORANGE” This service requires frequent maintenance every 2-3 weeks in addition to integrity care to preserve its health not to mention the cost. Ask yourself if this is right for you and your budget. Your colorist will always recommend the most fashionable healthiest choice to fit you! Keep it exciting by having your colorist create 3 or 4 seasonal looks for you. This keeps it fun fresh and up to date as well as appropriate for you the individual.
Written by Eric Charles Mokotoff

Color Changes

Does making a change to your haircolor have to be dramatic? NO, definitely not. The best changes are the subtle ones, or the ones that shift or evolve. The top industry colorists will tell you not to deconstruct the color then reconstruct it but rather work with what you have. There are those that color, color, color, recolor, bleach and resurface that hair canvas constantly; eventually the color looks over worked over done over colored. A good colorist will know how to add simple elements to add interest or create a new vision off an existing one. Sometimes it is as simple as a shadow, a tone or the re-angle of a foil and presto you have a fresh perspective on your color. Only the extreme cases require cleaning or preparing the hair canvas. At Pyure our color department is trained to see the hair from various perspectives through our education and industry involvement. Shifting, accentuating and re-visioning a look is what haircolor is all about. Knowing when to add light or shadow and where to put it is the art itself, not everyone can do that. Find out how to make this happen for you by coming into any of our 3 locations and speaking with a Pyure Talent Colorist.
Written by Eric Charles Mokotoff

Ahh, My hair is too red!

Many haircolor clients/guests experience or express how their brown/brunette hair is too red or how their blonde hair is too red. Oddly, this is an all too common scenario that can be avoided with a little education on both the client’s end and the person doing the color.

First, why does this happen?

A: Simply, there is red in brown. You can’t have brown without red. Red, Yellow & Blue make brown but too many times there is too much Red placed or contributed into the brown. By contributed we mean your natural pigment that plays a huge role in the result of your color. People with brown hair have red undertones so for those who are opposed to the red influence need to have their colorist create cooler based colors that will soften the red portion. Remember, Brown is Red Yellow & Blue without it you have green so the amount of red needs to be reduced not gone.

For the sake of fashion, there are many shades of brown and skin tones that welcome warm browns. The darker the natural brown the redder the contribution. The lighter the brown the more coppery or orange the contribution is.

So what about the blondes?

People who attempt to go lighter with color or highlights face unwanted red and copper due to either under lightening their hair or they are simply too dark to get that light.

The darker a person is the harder, harsher and more work the hair must face to become blonde.

Reality check! If you are naturally medium brown or darker you will face the dreaded “Blorange” result. Sadly, Mother Nature didn’t want you to be so light. The ideal people for Blonding are those who are naturally light browns and lighter.

Even people who are light brown or lighter have contributing orange in their hair. That orange goes through stages of yellow/orange and yellow.

Fashion tip: learn to embrace darker shades of blonde, lighter browns and subtle accents of blonde to avoid looking too red.

Again cooler shade selection must take place by your colorist.

Here in FL the abundance of UV rays contributes to both scenarios. People who live here will experience quicker fading, sun exposure and red tones on a greater scale than those living up north or in cooler environments. Frequent color glosses or glazes are needed and the right home maintenance products are required.

Clients need to be educated and prepared for these truths about color.

At Pyure Salon our colorists have studied these scenarios and case studies so that they can explain and advise what is best, what looks best for you and what is professionally recommended. Below are some examples of colors that are too red.

Written By Eric Charles Mokotoff
www.haircolorartist.com
Always available for consultations, give me ring 561 504 2272